|
Two intrepid explorers ready to brave the mighty Lake |
In the last couple of weeks of the expedition there was a
division of forces in the team. whilst Adam, Alex and Tom decided to stay in
the Urabamba valley and continue to chase the white water dream Alby and myself
took a different adventure to lake Titicaca.
06/09/2012 - 09/09/2012
Heading back to Cusco we paid a visit to Paul Cripps at Amazonas
Explorers to collect Derf’s Mamba as I took the decision to sell my beloved
Jefe to Gian Marco back in Colo De Mono. Having retrieved the boat we jumped on
a bus and whipped down to Puno where we planned to begin our journey across the
lake. Arriving late in the evening we quickly sourced a tasty polleria meal
before heading to bed for an early start in the morning.
By 11 o’clock we were underway and on the lake having acquired
supplies. In the taxi to the port we asked our taxi drivers if we needed a permit or license to paddle on the lake. He didn't seem to know but radioed his HQ to find out - the operator on the other end shouted (in Spanish) “Sir we are a Taxi company. How should we know?!. Guess not then.
|
Tim enjoy the mighty reed beds |
Heading off into the reed beds we quickly made our way to
the Islas Uros. These stunning man made floating islands are made from dead
reeds which are matted together to create a floating structure for people to
live on.
|
Alby approaching the Islas Uros |
The first islands we visited are a tourist attraction and as
such are not lived on in a traditional manner, however we heard that behind the
reeds there are islands where people live as they have for years. Great we
thought, we shall paddle there and spend the night! Stopping for a quick spot of
lunch and a chat with a couple of locals to find the best way to get to the none
touristy islands we were met with worried faces. The locals tried to dissuade us from leaving as the islands
and were adamant that they were too far away, we would get lost, the lake was choppy, we would drown, etc.
Having finally convinced them that it would probably be fine we set off.
|
Alby considers swapping his boat! |
After 2 emotional hours of navigating the narrow channels
through reed beds the lake proper finally appeared. Turns out it's pretty big.
Skirting around the huge expanse of reeds looking for a village to stay in it wasn’t
long before we saw some islands and headed in to speak to the inhabitants. First
paddling into the village we were ignored but then the children spotted
us and came across for a chat. After negotiating with the children to speak to
an adult we started asking around trying to find somewhere to sleep. The
question “is it possible to stay here” was answered with “si” so you obviously
ask “we can stay yes?” however the reply was “no, not here go and find
somewhere else”. It was now 5 o’clock and getting towards sun set. In the end
we found a couple of buildings on stilts, a sneaky look inside showed them to
be the school, and was surrounded by an expanse of floating reeds.
|
The sun setting over the not so friendly village |
Excellent - a camp site! As it was getting dark we decided to
bivvy out on the school and leave at first light the following day so as to avoid any unpleasant confrontations. It should
be mentioned that we brought some beers to share with anyone who would put us up, however as we were on our own it was an obvious chore to drink
them and watch a beautiful sunset!
|
One Camp-site! |
At 5.30 the following morning we arose, packed up and escaped
from our bivvy/school site. The plan
was to paddle across the lake to the Peninsula de Chuquito (opposite) and from there
possibly on or find another camp site depending how far and tired we were. A
quick breakfast of biscuits and the long flat slog began. Unfortunately the
weather had turned and it had become quite overcast, but with some paddling we
were soon warm and within an hour and a half across the lake to the town of Luquina Grande.
|
Tim has a healthy breakfast |
Amazingly this town was in the middle of a three day fiesta
so now at about 8 in the morning we were greeted and welcomed into a party,
given beer and soup! Spending an hour relaxing and chatting to the locals who were very excited to have two heroic kayakistas in their mix! As much fun
as it would have been to stay we still wanted to see more of the lake so
returned to the boats and paddled on around the peninsula, a brief coffee stop
at 11.30 at the next town along, Luquina Chico and the decision was taken to man up and charge across to the island of Taquile.
|
Our hosts at the fiesta |
|
Alby point to the island "it can't be that far!" |
The island looked quite small, however it is in fact 7km
long… Paddling away in the afternoon sun it took us three and a half hours to cover
the distance but we were rewarded with a very excited harbour master who
was very surprised to see us and impressed that we had paddled from the main
land. He kindly offered to hide our boats in his shed before giving us directions to a homestay up in the main
town.
After an amazing night sleep and the best breakfast in a long time (fried bready dohnuts, coffee, eggs and pancakes!) we went
off to explore the island. The people that live on Taquile continue to wear traditional (and very unique) clothing
and fish and farm the lake itself.
|
The island complete with terracing |
Obviously the water was too inviting to turn down, but we
had both forgotten our trunks!
|
Nuff said |
After lunch we caught a local boat back to Puno as we couldn't face the thought of the paddle back! After a swift shower it was time polleria, beer and
salsa dancing!
|
Tim relaxing on the boat back to Puno |